My Non-Touristy Chicago Recommendations
No, you will not find The Bean on this list
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This weekend, I officially graduate from college (yay!), and honestly, what I’m most excited about is seeing all my friends again. I completed my last year of school online; it just made the most sense since all my remaining classes were superfluous electives. I moved home, and for the past year, I’ve been away from where I went to school: the Windy City.
Chicago wasn’t necessarily my favorite place to live (although my roommates made it super hard to leave because I love them both so much), but it’s a fantastic place to visit. It is a vibrant city full of art, culture, and history. And now that I’m going back so soon, I’ve been thinking about how every travel guide lists the same stuff: Navy Pier, the Art Institute, seeing a game at Wrigley, and, of course, the ever famous “Bean” (which is officially called Cloud Gate, but nobody calls it that).
As someone who lived there for several years, I can attest that while those touristy things are fun, there are so many more cool things to do. Sure, an afternoon at the Art Institute or a concert at Millennium Park can be fun, but if you want something off the beaten path, or you’ve done all those things before and are looking for something new, I’ve got you. These are some of my favorite places to eat, shop, and visit in Chicago!
Breakfast and Brunch
So: you’re starting your day off hungry. You want to get some scrambled eggs, maybe a stack of pancakes, but there’s so many places and hundreds of chains, you don’t know where to begin. These are some of my favorite breakfast and brunch places that are tucked away in some cool neighborhoods.
If you’re after something hearty, Honeybear in Rogers Park is a wildly fun choice. The interior is bright, loud, and boisterous, and the menu delivers delicious and unique options like a Bayou Scrambler (complete with Andouille sausage) or Peacherry Crepes (filled with sweet cream and topped with peaches and cherries). Not only are they filling breakfasts, but the restaurant itself fills up fast! I definitely recommend making a reservation.
If Rogers Park feels a bit far from downtown, and you want to stick closer to the Magnificent Mile, Venteux in the Pendry Hotel offers one of the best upscale brunches in the area. It’s absolutely beautiful inside, and my go-to every time is the avocado toast. I mean, look how pretty it is on the plate!
If you’re thinking while reading, “Honestly, I just want some Instagrammable brunch vibes,” I’ve got you. The Brunchery in Lincoln Park is a dream for photo-ops and celebratory mornings. It’s known for its art-covered walls, flights of French toast, and mimosa towers. Since my friends and I lived in Lincoln Park and this was a few blocks away, it became one of our favorite places to grab a bite on Saturday mornings.
Coffee Shops and Sweet Treats
Maybe you’re not a full-breakfast person and prefer a grab-n-go morning snack. Or even if you the kind who loves a big breakfast, you might still crave a good coffee and pastry later in the day. Either way, here are a few of my favorite spots to satisfy that craving.
A little gem my friends and I found for coffee was Ludlow Charlingtons, a dark green hole-in-the-wall with portraits of dogs dressed like kings and queens lining the walls. From the rich smell of the coffee to their jazz playlist, everything about it feels cozy and charming. And just look at how pretty the drinks are served in these glasses!
For my theater lovers, The Understudy in Andersonville is a quirky, delightful stop. Part coffee shop, part bookstore, it’s filled with thoughtful details; from the themed drinks (I had a “Green Elixir” matcha in the spirit of Wicked) to the walls covered in pages of scripts. It’s a theater lover’s dream! I don’t have pictures for some reason, but I’ll link their website so you can see for yourself: https://www.theunderstudy.com/
As far as sweet treats go, yes, you’ll see Stan’s Donuts literally everywhere in Chicago. But, if you want something a little under-the-radar, head to Beacon Donuts. The flavors are creative and delicious, but what really makes it special is how hidden it is. It’s just a walk-up window tucked down an alley. The first time I found it, I felt like I was in on a secret! It’s become one of my favorite treat-yourself spots ever since.
Now, I don’t know about you, but I love a good cinnamon roll. If you’re with me on that, you need to try the ones at Ann Sather on Belmont. They’re best known for their Swedish breakfasts, but most importantly, their famous cinnamon rolls. Gooey and warm, they are the perfect treat. However, that is a sit down restaurant, so if you want something more “grab-n-go,” Lost Larson in Andersonville has you covered. Their cinnamon buns are absolutely delicious and are the perfect on-the-go indulgence.
The most “touristy” of all these is Ralph’s Coffee, located in the Ralph Lauren store on the Magnificent Mile. The store itself is full of stylish, old money charm, but near the front is their own cafe. I can attest to the fact that it has one of the best hot chocolates I’ve ever had in Chicago.
Sightseeing
Now, it’s time to get out and explore the city!
Okay, I get it, maybe you do want to see an art museum after all, and honestly, you should. The Art Institute downtown is absolutely worth the trip. Over time, it became a special place for me, one I would visit often. But if you’re looking for something off the beaten path, the National Museum of Mexican Art in Pilsen is a gem. It is a bit of a trek, but it is so worth. The artwork is vibrant, the space full of culture, and admission is free! If you’re up for a unique day trip, this one’s a must.
If you want a different type of museum experience or are more of a history buff, most people will point you toward the Museum Campus, where you’ll find Shedd, the Planetarium, and the Field Museum. Sure, those can be really fun, but if you’re hoping to skip the crowds and have a more intimate experience, the Richard H. Driehaus Museum located on the Near North Side is fantastic. Housed in a preserved Gilded Age mansion, it’s packed with stunning art, intricate architecture, and Chicago history.
Maybe you’ve had a big lunch and need a long walk, or maybe you just want a peaceful place to wander. Graceland Cemetery and Arboretum is a serene spot with paved paths and weeping willows. It’s calm and mercifully quiet from the city’s buzzing.
If Graceland feels a little far out, and you want to stay close to the city, the Lincoln Park Conservatory and Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool are just as lovely. There’s always many people out, having picnics, strolling, or throwing frisbees for their dogs. Both are also near the Lincoln Park Zoo, so you can easily make a whole afternoon in this area if you’re in the mood.
At night, you might be ready for some live entertainment. After all, the theater district in Chicago is always chocked full of activity with touring musicals and plays. But, I highly recommend seeing the Joffrey Ballet, purely because you get to visit the Lyric Opera House. Their season is always superb, and there isn’t one bad seat in the house.
If musicals and ballets aren’t your thing, but still want to see a live show, check out the Chicago Magic Lounge in Andersonville. There’s always one main magic act each night, but while you eat and have your drinks, tableside close-up magic is performed by rotating magicians. It’s an incredibly unique experience, from the secret entrance at the beginning, to the performances, to the post-show bartender magic.
And if you’re just in the mood for a good concert, there are always major acts playing at the United Center, but one of my favorite concerts I’ve ever seen in Chicago was at the Aragon Ballroom. It was packed, everyone standing under a fabulous painted ceiling, and jumping up and down simultaneously to the music. Such a cool vibe!
Shopping
While out sightseeing, you might want to pick up some mementos to remember your trip. Or maybe you’re just more of a shopper and less than a sight-seer to begin with! I got you.
One of the prettiest, most charming stores downtown is P.O.S.H., a shop full of antiques and vintage treasures. My mom and I always made a point of going there when she would visit me, and we always left with such pretty gifts for our friends and family, like jewelry, soaps, and vintage postcards.
If you are a bookworm like me and want to support small, local businesses, two bookstores I love are Three Avenues Bookstore and Exile in Bookville. Three Avenues is a small little shop that was near my old apartment, so it’s close to my heart, but it’s genuinely a delightful spot. Exile in Bookville is a bookstore and record store combined into a funky upstairs spot in the Fine Arts Building on the Magnificent Mile. The vibe there is eclectic in the best way.
Speaking of records, my favorite place for music browsing was Laurie’s Planet of Sound in Lincoln Square. It’s jammed pack full of records, CDs, DVDs, posters, memorabilia, and I think I even saw some cassettes for sale! It always feels alive in there, and I’ve scored a few great finds for reasonable prices.
If you want something on the bougie side, the high-end stores on the Magnificent Mile are always fun to look through (my personal favorite to visit was Tiffany’s). But if you’d rather go thrifting for some secondhand gems, I recommend Buffalo Exchange in Andersonville. It was a treasure trove full of clothes, shoes, hats, purses, and all sorts of fun, quality finds!
Dinner
Time to unwind at the end of an exciting day around the city. Maybe you’re with a group of friends or maybe you’re dining alone, but either way, these are some of the best places to have a meal. And no, this list doesn’t include Chicago deep-dish. If I’m being honest, I think it’s kind of overrated. (Detroit style for the win!)
My all-time favorite place to eat is Cafe Ba Ba Reeba, a Spanish tapas restaurant in Lincoln Park. My family, friends, and I always make a point in going every time we’re in Chicago because it is just a fantastic spot for dinner. Everything is sharable, and their sangria (that they are known for) is absolutely delicious. I recommend it to literally everyone who is traveling to Chicago. You can’t miss this fun, lively spot!
If you want great views while you have your dinner, Beatnik on the River is your best bet. You are right on the Chicago River and they serve fabulous Mediterranean food.
If you’re grumbling about my dig at Chicago style pizza, I will admit, there is one pizza place in Chicago that I like, but it serves pizza in an unconventional way. Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder Co. puts the crust in a bowl, fills it with sauce and toppings, covers it with cheese, puts it in the oven, and then flips it onto a plate. It’s like a little pizza dome! It’s a historic spot in Chicago, and it’s such a fun and interesting way to have some pie.
If you’re not in the mood for pizza but still want Italian food, Osteria Via Stato is the best. Look at the tiramisu that I had! I only went there like one or two times, but I still remember my lovely meals and how cozy the atmosphere was inside.
Now, I’m a big sushi person. It’s like my favorite meal ever. My absolute favorite sushi was at Kamehachi in Old Town. This, like Ba Ba Reeba, was another one my family, friends, and I frequented because the sushi was that good.
For my vegan friends, PLANTA Queen located right smack downtown is a super fun pick. I’m not vegan, but I loved the meal I had there! The cuisine is Asian inspired and packed with flavor. Everything from drinks to desserts was delectable.
For those who want something a little more upscale, or are purely interested in having superior vibes at your meal, 3 Arts Club Cafe at RH Chicago is divine. Coffeehouse by day and stylish bar and restaurant by night, 3 Arts is located in a Restoration Hardware. Once you’re done with your meal, you can wander around and look at the beautiful furniture and houseware.
And last but not least, if you want a rooftop, go to bar avec (this is actually where we’re having my graduation dinner!). Listen, there are many rooftops to be found downtown, and I’ve been to quite a few, but in my opinion, nothing compares to bar avec. The food and drinks are delicious, and the view is spectacular at night!
Phew! That was a long one. Congrats on making it to the end! :)
Thank you for reading this week. When you hear from me next week, I’ll have a bachelor’s degree! I hope you’re taking care of yourself. I appreciate you. <3
- Lillian
Hey siri, add trip to Chicago with Lilly to calendar✍️✍️✍️
Going to save this for later!!! Everything looks insane:)